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Frequently Asked Questions

Fine-tuning HO knuckle couplers

Fine-tuning HO knuckle couplers

 
By Jeff Wilson
Published: Saturday, August 31, 2002
 
Not long ago the only way to have working knuckle couplers on your HO cars was to install them yourself. The standard coupler on most cars straight from the box was the horn-hook. The only widely available knuckle coupler was the Kadee Magne-Matic.

The biggest knock on the horn-hook was (and is) looks: They are ugly and bear little resemblance to a prototype coupler. Operationally they are also lacking: They pull just fine, but tend to skew sideways while pushing and are near impossible to uncouple automatically (and not easy to uncouple by hand). Their only advantage was that they were free - they came on virtually every locomotive and car.

Kadee's no. 5 coupler thus became the de facto HO standard that modelers strove for. Although a bit oversize, the no. 5 looks like a real coupler. It operates very well, has the advantage of delayed magnetic uncoupling, and can be uncoupled by hand as well.

Today, along with Kadee, other companies offer automatic knuckle couplers, including Accurail (Accumate), Bachmann (E-Z Mate), Life-Like (Proto 2000 coupler), and McHenry. For a comparison of the different brands, see Jim Hediger's article in the July 2000 issue of Model Railroader.

Now both Kadee and Accurail also offer automatic knuckle couplers that are scale size. Both operate well, but must be mounted and adjusted properly to ensure good operation.
Even though most equipment now comes with knuckle couplers as standard, many of these allegedly ready-to-run cars require some coupler tune-up for optimum performance. It's a good idea to check every new car before placing it in service.
 
Accurail's scale Accumate coupler has its own coupler box which fits into the molded box on a Walthers flatcar.
Body versus truck mounting
Most model cars today have couplers mounted on the body of the car, which is the way the prototype does it. Many older models (and many cars designed for the train-set market) have truck-mounted couplers.

Which is best? Pulling usually isn't a problem, but pushing truck-mounted couplers around curves causes the trucks to skew forcing the flanges against the insides of the railheads. This pressure often results in derailments, especially at rail joints or turnouts. Body-mounted couplers work better as they transfer these forces through the carbodies, so I save truck mounting for passenger cars and other long cars that have problems on tight curves.

On many freight cars the coupler box covers are held in place by friction pins; on some others the manufacturers recommend gluing the covers in place. Neither method is fully satisfactory as friction pins can work loose over time and gluing boxes makes it difficult to correct any future problems.

A better solution is to mount these boxes and box covers with screws. It's a simple and inexpensive process to improve reliability. Start by cutting off the friction pin from the coupler box cover. Use a scriber to press a dimple in the center of the former friction pin location and drill a hole through it with a no. 43 (clearance) bit.

Check the size of the hole on the body with the no. 50 bit. If the hole is smaller, drill it out with the bit; if the hole is larger fill it with body putty, then when it dries drill it with the no. 50 bit.

Tap the hole 2-56. The tap will easily cut threads in plastic and soft metal. Turn the tap in one revolution, then back it out to clear scrap material. Repeat the process until the threads are through the hole. Use a 2-56 roundhead screw to secure the cover.
 
Using a Kadee coupler height gauge makes it easy to see whether a coupler installation is low.
Preparation and installation
To install and maintain couplers you'll need nos. 43 and 50 drill bits, a 2-56 tap (for 2-56 screws), a pin vise to hold them, and a hobby knife. The no. 50 bit is for the 2-56 screw mounting hole, and the no. 43 bit is the proper size for drilling clearance holes.

You'll also need what I consider an absolute necessity, regardless of the brand of couplers you're using: a Kadee no. 205 height gauge. Checking every coupler on every car against the gauge before placing it in service will go a long way toward ensuring smooth operation.

I also highly recommend getting Kadee sample pack no. 13, which includes 25 different Kadee couplers. Regardless of the brand of coupler you're using, this sample pack is an excellent way to test various combinations of shank length, coupler boxes, or coupler head overset or underset.

Before adding a coupler, inspect all of the parts. Check the inside of the coupler box as well as the coupler box cover for any stray molding flash, as this can keep the spring and coupler from seating properly. Clean up any problem areas with a hobby knife or needle files.

Check the coupler shank for burrs. Any imperfections can keep the coupler from centering properly. Check the coupler knuckles for burrs and flash.

The coupler shank should move freely from side to side without binding. If it doesn't, make sure the screw isn't on too tight. If that's not the problem, remove the cover and check for flash.

If you're mounting a coupler using the draft-gear box that came with it, make sure you have a flat area on which to mount it. Use the clearance hole on the box as a guide to drill the mounting hole and secure the box with a screw.

Once the coupler and box cover are installed and operating smoothly, add the trucks and check the coupler height with the Kadee gauge.
 
Raise the coupler height by adding a washer or two between the car body bolster and truck so it matches the gauge.
This drooping McHenry coupler needs a shim because its shank is thinner than the box opening.
A gentle squeeze on the special coupler pliers makes it easy to adjust the shape of the uncoupling pin.
Fixing potential problems
There are a couple of ways to fix a coupler that is too low. If the height difference is slight (no more than .015") the simplest solution is to add a washer between the bolster and truck. Kadee makes fiber washers in .010" (no. 209) and .015" (208) thicknesses. Avoid using multiple (or thicker) washers, as the car will be less stable, and while the coupler height might be corrected the car itself will likely be standing too tall.

Extremely low coupler height problems may be resolved by substituting an underset-shank coupler such as the Kadee no. 21, 24, or 27 or the McHenry 15, 16, or 17. These have the knuckle set higher on the shank than a standard coupler, which has a centered shank.

If the coupler comes out too high, use an overset-shank coupler such as the Kadee no. 22, 25, or 29 or McHenry 12, 13, or 14.

Another common (and often misdiagnosed) problem is a sagging coupler. At first glance it looks like the problem is a low coupler, but a closer inspection reveals that height isn't the problem - the coupler is sagging.

This ready-to-run Athearn car was equipped at the factory with McHenry couplers that have shanks quite a bit thinner than the depth of the coupler box, allowing it to flop up and down. The extreme curve of the uncoupling pin was no doubt to keep it from snagging the track. Once again, there are a couple of ways to fix the problem.

Most coupler boxes on new cars today are made to hold the Kadee no. 5 and similar couplers. Substituting a Kadee no. 58 coupler in the McHenry's place eliminates most of this excessive play. I have nothing against McHenry - it's just that the Kadee coupler has a slightly thicker shank and the added thickness of the bronze coupler spring just makes a better fit on this car. This new coupler is level and matches the height gauge (always look at the top of the coupler when checking the gauge).

The second solution, if you want to save the original coupler, is to add a shim inside the coupler box to shorten the depth of the opening.

When you change the height of the coupler you sometimes have to adjust its uncoupling pin. It should just clear the lower lip on the gauge. The easiest way is with a pair of uncoupling pin pliers such as the Kadee no. 237. A standard pliers will work as well, but the curved nose of the Kadee pliers makes bending the pin either way easier.

 
Be strict in testing
There's no way a brief article can cover every possible coupler situation. Successful coupler installation is a matter of tight quality control and being creative in resolving tricky situations.

If you take care to mount the couplers level, at the proper height, and functioning properly, you'll enjoy operating your layout more than ever.

This article first appeared in the May 2002 issue of Model Railroader.
 

Allan asked this question about Kadee Couplers

Could you tell me if there is somewhere I can find out which Kadee coupling to use with different locos and rolling stock, I am just starting out and as my theme is NSWGR of the 60s era, I have both locos and rolling stock from diffrent manufactures. Like Lima, Life like, etc. If you could help that would be a great relief. The number of diffrent Kadee coupling available is really confusing. Cheers Allan *************************************************************************************************** Hi Allan Yes there is a lot of variation and sizes, For information on kadee couplers visit www.kadee.com where they have information and downloads on various American type. Conversion listed as pdf files For Australian equipment I suggest you ask questions and join the forum at http://www.railpage.com.au these are very knowledgeable people and may be able to help you buy asking questions. I have sold off my Australian equipment The most common coupler we sell is the good old no #5, the no 58 is the more scale size, the #148 whisker couplings are also popular. Most of the time you need to cut off the existing couple build a base, and glue screw the coupler to the right height with a 2-56 screw, and bolt, drill n tap to make the hole with a thread, match the car up to the kadee coupler height gauge, some locomotives may use the Nem type that push in to the regular coupler boxes. We can usually order any kadee item if we have none in stock, or buy locally from our local hobby shops in Sydney. Thanks again for asking. Anthony
 

Lionel Electric Train

How Products are Made:

How is a model train made?

Background

"Dear Dad: One thing I want this Christmas more than anything is a Lionel Electric Train.… You ought to see the way they run! Like a million dollars. And they whistle too. Real railroad whistle signals by remote control. You can couple and uncouple cars electrically, from a distance, just by touching a button; and reverse the train or speed it up or slow it down. Please get me a Lionel, Dad. We'll have lots of fun together."

This letter was featured in a pull-out section of the 1938 Lionel Trains catalog, leaving space for a boy to note which model number train his father should purchase. Lionel electric model trains were all the rage in 1938, had been for many years prior, and continued to be through the 1950s. Though declining in popularity since the 1960s, the trains are still manufactured and sold throughout the world today. Many adults now collect old Lionel train models, as evidenced by the number of hobby shops and collectors' shows dedicated to the product, and the thousands of members of the Train Collectors Association. Lionel is the largest manufacturer of toy trains in the world.

An electric train runs by transferring a positive current from one track rail through to the motor and then returning the current through the negative track rail. The current is then transferred to a transformer or battery, completing the circuit.

History

Joshua Lionel Cowen claimed to have embarked upon several other inventions prior to his namesake train, including the flash-light, the dry-cell battery and the motorised fan. Whether these claims were true or not is subject to dispute, but there is no argument that Cowen devised one of the first motorised trains as an ad gimmick for a New York City toy manufacturer in the early 1900s. Cowen's idea was not entirely unique; a German toy maker had featured a model electric streetcar at the Columbian World's Fair in Chicago in 1893 and a Cincinnati firm, Carlisle & Finch, came up with a similar invention in 1896. Cowen's original battery-operated invention was not a toy, however. It served solely to draw attention to the other merchandise in the toy shop window and resembled a box on wheels. The words "Electric Express" were embossed on the sides. However, the toy shop customers began requesting the electric car as well as the other merchandise and Cowen began to market his invention.

Cowen soon upgraded his design and began to make a variety of components. In addition to steam locomotives, Pullman sleepers, baggage cars, freight cars and cabooses, he made electric trolleys as well. Trains bearing the logos of various rail lines were available, too, and railroad companies began to submit blueprints of new designs to Lionel in the hopes that he would create a model based on them and give them some free advertising. The transformer was also introduced in the early 1900s.

In 1902, Cowen produced the first of what would become his trademark train catalogs. This 16-page, black-and-white version paled in comparison to the later full-color wish books, but still served as a useful marketing tool. Catalogues and advertising were primary components of the Lionel marketing strategy and for decades the company promoted the sense of importance a boy could feel running his own railroad and the opportunity the product provided for father and son to bond. In 1921, the Lionel Manufacturing Company placed the first-ever advertisement in the colour comics section of a news-paper promoting its Lionel Engineers Club for Lionel train owners.

Lionel joined the war effort in 1917, producing compasses, binnacles, and navigating equipment for the U.S. Navy. The company also offered a model war train. By the 1930s, Cowen began to re-think his decision to promote war toys, however. The post-war years were profitable for the Lionel Corporation, as the company was renamed when it was reorganized in 1918. Lionel's sales in 1920 topped $2 million. The Great Depression took its toll on the company, but the 1934 introduction of a handcar operated by Mickey and Minnie Mouse, endorsed by Cowen's friend Walt Disney, helped the company bounce back. Lionel introduced streamlined engines that year to reflect the new Burlington Zephyr and Union Pacific City of Port-land in use in the real train world. Lionel introduced remote control operation that year as well. A painstakingly accurate model of the New York Central's Hudson-type steam engine was released in 1937 in an effort to appeal to the burgeoning market among adult model railroad enthusiasts.

World War II halted the production of Lionel trains for a period as all scrap metal was directed toward the war effort, but Lionel remained secure with $5.5 million in government contracts. In order to sustain its popularity in the interim, the company released a paper model train, dubbed the "Wartime Freight Train." Metal trains were back, though, once the war ended and in 1957 Lionel introduced the ill-received pastel pink and blue model train for girls. Cowen retired in 1958, the company's first losing year since the Depression. Nine months later he sold the company to his grand-nephew. With the advent of airplanes, racing cars, and tele-vision, model trains dropped in popularity over the next three decades. The company has been purchased several times since Cowen first sold it and is now owned by a group of four investors, one of whom is the rock musician Neil Young, an avid model train collector. Young's interest in Lionel leadership began when he helped the company design a remote control device that could be operated by persons with handicaps affecting their grip. Young hoped to actively share his hobby with his sons, who have cerebral palsy. Since 1970, Lionel trains have been manufactured in Mt. Clemens, Michigan, a suburb of Detroit.

Raw Materials

The primary materials used to manufacture Lionel trains are metals such as steel, aluminum, zinc, and plastic.

The Manufacturing
Process

The various components of the Lionel train, such as engines, cabooses, boxcars, and tankers, are designed on a computer.

The engine

  • The Lionel steam locomotive engine is made by a process called die-casting, whereby a hot liquid metal, such as steel or zinc, is heated to 900° F (482.2° C) degrees and then shot into a highly detailed mold.
  • The mold is then placed in a cooling tank where it cools and hardens to form the body of the locomotive.
  • The locomotive body is then trimmed, cut and milled (whereby a high-speed cutter cuts off sections only thousandths of an inch thick to create flat surfaces), both by machine and by hand to form the finished locomotive engine.
  • The locomotive body is placed on the assembly line for painting and final assembly.

The cars

  • Plastic components are formed in a process called injection molding, where-by plastic pellets are melted and shot into a mold. The liquid cools and hardens into the shape of the component. Metal components other than the engine are die-cast.
  • The components are placed on an assembly line and sent to a drilling station, where a combination of manual and automated processes are used to attach hundreds of tiny accessories, created earlier in a process known as sub-assembly, such as ladders, headlights and handrails.
  • Any die cast parts undergo a process called phosphating, where the component is dipped in a phosphate solution to open up pores in the metal and allow for any paint to soak in.
  • The metal and plastic components are sent to the painting station where they are sprayed with paint by a machine or painted by hand. Components being painted multiple colors undergo a process called masking, where a mask-like guard is placed over areas that a certain color of paint should not reach.
  • At the next station, the components are affixed with lettering and logos through two different processes: hot stamping and pad printing. Hot stamping is used on flat parts and pad printing is used on raised and rounded plastic surfaces and all die-cast surfaces. Hot stamping uses a Mylar-heated rubber dye to emboss print onto the flat surfaces and pad printing uses a dye plate to etch print onto the raised, rounded and die-cast surfaces.
  • The engine is affixed to a chassis, which holds the motor, electrical circuitry and wheels. Each car is affixed to a non-motorized chassis that provides support and holds the wheels.
  • After successful completion of several quality control tests, the finished model train components are sent to a shipping area where they are packaged and prepared for shipping.

The tracks

  • Metal sheets are placed into a forming machine, which cuts the metal into miniature rails and ties.
  • The rails and ties are joined together in a hydraulic press.
  • After quality control inspections, the track segments are sent to a shipping area where they are packaged and prepared for shipping.

Quality Control

At the end of the assembly line, various functioning components of the train are tested, such as whistles and bells. The engine must be able to run off the line under its own power and climb a 30° incline within 5.5 seconds. Paint colors undergo quality control as well. A color spectrometer is used to ensure that all paint is the precisely right color.

The Future

Lionel train components have always reflected the times. Engines have been modeled after real trains in use during various periods in Lionel's history. The cars often reflect the businesses and interests of the times, from the early milk cars to military components during war times to boxcars bearing the names and logos of major businesses of different periods. It is anticipated that Lionel designs will continue to reflect contemporary society and the real-life rail-roading environment on which the Lionel train is modeled.

Where to Learn More

Books

Hollander, Ron. All Aboard!: The Story of Joshua Lionel Cowen and His Lionel Train Company. New York: Workman Publishing, 1981.

[Article by: Kristin Palm]

 

HO Model Trains - Metal Wheels

HO Model Trains - Metal Wheels

For years all model HO cars came with plastic wheels and many still do. There cheap to manufacture and roll fine on a layout. Then why change?

There are a few reasons for the change over. The obvious reason is they are prototypical of the real thing. They make a clear metal to metal sound along with the clickety clack as they passover the track divisions.

The real reason from a hobbyist point of view is the problem of dirty tracks. The plastic peals off as it rolls around the track and leaves a black residual stain on the track. You end up constantly cleaning the track. This becomes intolerable over time.

The one drawback is some of the first metal wheels axles were not made of a nonconductive material. This became a real problem when you tried to put metal wheel sets into a metal sprung truck. Instant short! Now the metal wheels come with either a carbon composite or epoxy graphite resin axle.

The metal wheel has also improved the problems with switch points and crossovers. The plastic would easily get chipped or scared which would cause problems at switches. The metal wheel has eliminated that kind of problem to some extent. A good switch needs to be one that closes the switch point everytime.

One issue that is still a irritating problem is the pony and trailing truck wheels on brass steam engines. They come with steel axles which can cause annoying shorts. If one of the wheels touches the cylinders or cab frame it will cause a short. If the axles were made of a noncunductive material problem solved. Using a set of freight car wheels is a shot in the dark. The trailing truck wheels come in varying sizes as sometimes does the pony trucks. Unless you are really good with a mini-lathe and can create your own composite axles you have an annoying dilemma. The only alternative is to try and adjust the pony trucks so they sit farther away from the cylinders or in both cases you paint a clear epoxy onto the cylinders and cab where the short occurs. There really isn't anything you can do with the trailing trucks except to apply some form of nonconductive material to the cab that is all but invisible to the naked eye.

There are some trucks for freight cars that you cannot replace the plastic wheels. You have to replace the whole truck. These are the trucks that have the axle come through the truck frame. You can actually see the axle turn as the wheels roll down the track. I find this unfortunate because I have several sets of these type of trucks.

You may find the replacement process a bit expensive if you have a great number of cars. Your best bet is to surf the WEB for discounted wheels. Proto 2000 wheels because can normally be had cheaper than Kadee and A-line, feel free to request pricing on this products from admin

Based on an article from Brass Locomotive Works

 

Modeling Tips & Tricks 2

Modeling Tips & Tricks 2

Safety First

One of the key elements to making your hobby fun is to make it safe. Many of our workbenches contain sharp tools such as hobby knives, seam scrapers, scribers, pin-vise screwdrivers, chisels, etc. All of these tools are prone to rolling off the bench and possibly into our laps! To keep your enjoyment level up, and your medical bills down, here are some quick fixes to control wandering tools.

Triangular pencil grips, which can be found in many school supply aisles, fit nicely over standard hobby knives. For tools that are too small, or too large for a pencil grip, simply cut a 1-2" long piece from a kitchen sponge. Slit a starter hole at the end and carefully slide it over the end of the tool's handle.

 

 
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